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Montezuma Castle National Monument - Arizona

From Phoenix, take Interstate 17 to exit 289, and follow the signs for two miles of easy driving through the Verde Valley to the ancient home of some of Arizona's Sinagua Indians. In the twelfth century, the cliff-dwelling tribe built an elaborate "castle," so majestic that many mistook it as Aztecan, and thought it was made by Montezuma himself. A sloping, stone-walled asphalt parking lot gives way to tree-sheltered National Park Service buildings which house well-maintained restrooms and offer fountain-fresh drinking water. A nominal fee takes you into the Visitor Center -- little more than an elaborate information booth and gift/book store, surrounded by surprisingly interesting exhibits. Among the displays of preserved pottery, baskets and tools of the prehistoric people, are fossil imprints and dried specimens of insect species that have survived to modern times--even though the Sinagua didn't.

Exit the must-see Visitor Center museum, to walk shady, wheelchair accessible cement paths for a view of Montezuma's Castle. The magnificent dwelling seems to defy gravity from its 100-foot high roost in a recessed area beneath the cliff's overhang. Some speculate the high dwelling, accessible only by ladders and ropes, provided protection from the sweltering desert heat, and wild animals. This view from afar does little to spark the imagination, but on the way out, a glassed-in model of the castle, complete with Indian figurines and continuous replay tape, pulls you in to their everyday life. Peering in at the realistic loin-clothed figures--a young mother chasing a toddler who has dashed toward the edge--you'll find that despite their mystical, unexplained disappearance, the ancient Sinagua Indians were merely people, with social structures and communities modern to their time, and not so distant from our own.

A few yards west on the path, is a larger dwelling, now badly deteriorated. The foremost rooms are accessible to visitors, but in comparison to the higher pueblo with its attractive palace veneers, the lower open rooms serve merely as a tease. The inner corridors, which once housed 45 rooms, are blocked off, leading you to gaze back at the high, palatial dwelling up above, and wonder what treasures must lie inside.

Continue along the looping path, stopping to soak in the sounds of vacationing families and camera shutters clicking. Those modern day sounds combine with more natural ones, the shade-cooled wind rustling through the leaves of trees made lush and green by the refreshing waters of adjacent Beaver Creek. Though its smooth black stones were almost completely dry on the late summer day we visited, the creek must have been a main source of food and a lively center of activity for the tribe.

Pose for a few pictures alongside the creek, and between the wide, V-trunked trees. Let your film capture faces dappled by sparks of golden sunlight that spade down through the lush, leafy canopy above. You'll long to stay in the shady serenity of the Monument's picnic area, knowing when you reach your car in the lot, it's back to the hot, desert highway.

 

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