|
Just
northwest of Albuquerque at the unspoiled village of San
Ysidro, at the Junction of NM 44 and State Highway 4, begins
one of New Mexico's most spectacular scenic drives --the Jemez
Mountain Trail, declared a State Scenic Byway in 1994 in
recognition of its fantastic natural and cultural resources.
Traveling this trail is a journey through time. A leisurely day
trip takes you past amazing geological formations, ancient
Indian ruins, an Indian pueblo, and the remainders of the area's
logging, mining and ranching heritage. Much of the regions is
now a National Recreation Area, and there are many opportunities
for hiking, fishing, camping and cross-country skiing. The Jemez
Mountains are also famous for their natural hot springs.
San Ysidro, with it's Upper Sonoran desert terrain, is a village
where you can find the work of local artisans and view a
restored Spanish adobe church. After San Ysidro, the Jemez
Mountain Trail follows a winding path along the Jemez River,
cutting through canyons whose colors change dramatically from
brown to brilliant red and orange.
Jemez (Hay-mes) Pueblo is about five miles from San
Ysidro, located at the gateway of the majestic Canon de San
Diego. There are more than 3,000 tribal members, most of whom
live in the puebloan village known as "Walatowa"--the
Towa word meaning "THE Place." The Walatowa Visitor
Center provides information about the pueblo and has a
selection of arts and crafts created by Jemez artisans.
Interpretive tours are offered and, with advance arrangements,
can include dance performances, artists demonstrations and a
traditional feast. Experience the Jemez Red Rock's picturesque
scenery, where unique rock formations contrast with the blue New
Mexico skies. Enjoy traditional Jemez foods, arts and crafts
which may be purchased at roadside stands. The Pueblo's Holy
Ghost and Dragon Fly Fishing Lakes provide recreation areas
where visitors can picnic, fish, and enjoy the great outdoors.
For an interesting side trip, take a right turn at State Road
290 (just before the Jemez Red Rocks) and it will lead you
through the ranching community of Ponderosa. There are
also campgrounds and an RV park. For another interesting side
trip off State Highway 4, turn left on Forest Road 485 and
follow the Guadalupe River Canyon to the Gilman Tunnels,
railroad tunnels built in the 1920s where the Guadalupe River
thunders down a majestic gorge.
Returning to State Highway 4, travelers reach the historic
village of Jemez Springs, with art galleries,
restaurants, a mercantile store and various lodgings including
several B&Bs, a small inn, cabins and a motel. In 1994 Jemez
Springs was selected by the National Civic League as an
All-American City in recognition of its citizens' collective
grass-roots effort to improve their quality of life. Just above
the village is the Jemez State Monument, featuring exhibits and
picnic areas in the shadow of impressive prehistoric Indian
ruins of the ancient Towa Pueblo of Guisewa (Towa word
meaning "place of the boiling waters") and the
17th-century Spanish Mission of San Jose de los Jemez.
Evidence of geothermal activity is predominant throughout the
Jemez Mountains. One mile north of the monument is Soda Dam,
an unusual geological formation where minerals from a natural
spring have, over thousands of years, created a dam that blocks
the Jemez River. The river pours through a hole in the dam,
forming a waterfall. Soda Dam has become one of the most popular
swimming holes in the Jemez Mountains.
A few miles past Battleship Rock, a sheer cliff that
rises suddenly above the river like the prow of a ship, is the
parking lot for Spence Hot Springs, one of the more
accessible and scenic places for a long soak in hot mineral
waters. Less than two miles from the springs is the settlement
of La Cueva, with a country store, several restaurants,
and a lodge situated at the junction of State Road 126 and State
Highway 4.
From here you drive east, climbing out of the Jemez Canyon,
passing Jemez Falls and the east fork of the Jemez River
before entering Valle Grande, at 8,500 feet one of the largest
volcanic calderas in the world. Although 14 miles across, only
part of the caldera can be seen because the view is obscured by
the great dome of Redondo Peak, which, at 11,254 feet, is the
highest point in Sandoval County.
The trail now heads towards Bandelier National Monument,
site of one of the most visited Indian ruins in the nation.
Spectacular Bandelier is part of a 50-square-mile wilderness
area, with miles of trails to ancient cliff dwellings radiating
out from the visitor center.
Just past Bandelier is Los Alamos. New Mexico's famous
"secret city," now a thriving community of 18,000
perched high on Pajarito (Pa-Ha-Ree-Tow) Plateau. Dozens
of galleries, museums, restaurants and lodgings offer everything
for the traveler. It's also a four season sportsman's paradise.
Once you leave Los Alamos, State Highway 4, The Jemez Mountain
Trail, ends.
|
